Bott
Active member
The trick to bleeding is to open the bleed nipple and start pumping. Fill rez when fluid enters the feed tube. Keep the bleeder open. The other trick is to have the hose off the nipple so it has a U, so as to lock the fluid to enter back into the caliper, not air. But then again, just pumping the brake will not drain the caliper, nor the line to the master.
You'll see a lot of videos opening and closing the bleeder when moving the lever/pedal. Ignore those. It's too simple to just get arm pump like using a handle from a water well. Same principal applies.
Change the fluid every two years so as not to have condensation build under the quad ring used in the caliper. The quad ring has memory and moves back to square. When this buildup happens this jell grows under the quad and stops the quad from moving back to square, which pulls the piston back and away from the pad.
Pad begins to drag, you will have to remove the quad ring and clean the buildup out of the groove the quad sits in. It will take a pointed scribe to dig out this white powder buildup that causes the quad from moving back to square.
For example, the quad ring sits in the groove like this [ | | ]. Grab a brake lever/pedal, the quad moves like this [ / / ], then returns to square like this [ | | ].
Once the fluid changes color from the drain tube, press the lever/pedal in/down while closing the bleed nipple. Pump the lever/pedal back up to gain a hard lever/pedal. The new type masters like on the ATF have a bleeder at the master. Simply press lever to load, open the bleeder while pressure is being applied, then close. Lever returns back to (hard) normal.
The old way will move the threads out of the caliper if not have it leak from being stretched. The trick way is moving the nipple to close once. Video soon.
You'll see a lot of videos opening and closing the bleeder when moving the lever/pedal. Ignore those. It's too simple to just get arm pump like using a handle from a water well. Same principal applies.
Change the fluid every two years so as not to have condensation build under the quad ring used in the caliper. The quad ring has memory and moves back to square. When this buildup happens this jell grows under the quad and stops the quad from moving back to square, which pulls the piston back and away from the pad.
Pad begins to drag, you will have to remove the quad ring and clean the buildup out of the groove the quad sits in. It will take a pointed scribe to dig out this white powder buildup that causes the quad from moving back to square.
For example, the quad ring sits in the groove like this [ | | ]. Grab a brake lever/pedal, the quad moves like this [ / / ], then returns to square like this [ | | ].
Once the fluid changes color from the drain tube, press the lever/pedal in/down while closing the bleed nipple. Pump the lever/pedal back up to gain a hard lever/pedal. The new type masters like on the ATF have a bleeder at the master. Simply press lever to load, open the bleeder while pressure is being applied, then close. Lever returns back to (hard) normal.
The old way will move the threads out of the caliper if not have it leak from being stretched. The trick way is moving the nipple to close once. Video soon.
