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Normal battery voltage.

M

mikemxbike4

New member
Joined
May 8, 2024
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9
Location
Arizona
What is your guys’ battery voltage with key on and bike not running? Mine always seems to be around 12.3-12.4 volts even after long rides, but after I let the bike sit overnight.

I wonder whether it is typical for an OEM battery, or whether I should start shopping for a NOCO NLP14 Lithium battery soon.
 
It’s a 12 volt battery. Key on engine off 12.3 is normal. My 2019 still has the factory battery. No point in replacing unless you’re having problems or looking for weight savings. Or you just hate having money (like myself and others here lol). That said the stock battery loves a tender so if it doesn’t live on one, your life on the factory battery will probably be shorter than average as the factory battery is a known weak spot.
 
From the manual:

Batteries that fall below 12.5 V run the risk of sulfation, a condition whereby sulfate crystals form inside the battery and significantly reduce performance.
If the battery voltage falls below 12.5 V, it should be charged immediately using the recommended battery charger.

I know next to nothing about batteries and definitely less than you guys, just saying what it says in the manual...

That NOCO battery sounds really good, it's about EUR 140 here. Good reviews on Amazon, too.
 

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On a scale 1 to 10, how easy would you guys say it is to take out the battery (1 = easy). For someone, who is very, very bad with tools.

As Murphy's law would have it, I'll receive the FTR probably in the first week of June, only to have to leave for up to 6 weeks at the end of June. Have to go somewhere by car.
I suppose the battery wouldn't survive that.
I'm thinking to take it out and leave it on a tender. Either at home (but then it would be left unattended, as no-one will be at home), or to take it with me.
The bike will stay in a condo garage with no electrical outlets, so plugging it in in the garage is not an option.
 
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For AGMs, which is what the stock battery is, the voltage runs just a little higher (about .1v), but this chart is a good one to memorize.
 
12.3 with the key on is actually quite good.

Your lights, dash, computer, fuel pump, and marker lights are ALL ON when the key is on. Those items draw power which causes a voltage drop. Think of it as a leaky garden hose. Water leaks out of the hose and causes a pressure drop within the hose. That's the same as your voltage drop. Voltage is pressure, and when current flows, the pressure drops.

There is ABSOLUTELY NO RISK of sulfation in this situation unless your battery is at less than 12.5V while the key is off for long periods. There is no practical use in measuring a battery voltage with the key on and engine off. It is only worthwhile to measure the Amperage in that situation to look for faults within the circuit.
 
General rule with all batteries is, 12.7v is a healthy battery. Anything below 12.4v and it's on it's way out.
 
wilit said:
General rule with all batteries is, 12.7v is a healthy battery. Anything below 12.4v and it's on it's way out.
Click to expand...
:rolleyes:
Key on or off? Engine on or off? How many accessories are on when you turn on the key? What is the usage history? Your general rule costs people money. "General rules" for automotive electrical are made and parroted by those who don't understand automotive electrical.
 
Found this in a drawer. Bought years ago, never used. Do you guys know whether it's suitable for the stock FTR battery?

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wilit said:
General rule with all batteries is, 12.7v is a healthy battery. Anything below 12.4v and it's on it's way out.
Click to expand...
I am sorry for being a dick. Bad day... blah, blah, blah... not an excuse. Sorry, sir.

OP was posting voltage numbers with the key on. There are no "Rules of Thumb" for when a key is in the on position.
 
K1000 said:
Found this in a drawer. Bought years ago, never used. Do you guys know whether it's suitable for the stock FTR battery?

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I went through the specs... and it is sold by a reliable retailer here, that I visit weekly, in Canada. IMO, this is a good charger. I am kind of surprised, though, that it does not come with an SAE-spec connector, but I know fuck-all about the European market.
 
MacBayne said:
I went through the specs... and it is sold by a reliable retailer here, that I visit weekly, in Canada. IMO, this is a good charger. I am kind of surprised, though, that it does not come with an SAE-spec connector, but I know fuck-all about the European market.
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I have bought the SAE adapter. It was a quarter of the price of the whole charger. That's how they get you.
 
I own two NOCO Genius charger/maintainers. My Scout and FTR both have LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) batteries and the NOCO chargers have a lithium setting. They also have a setting for standard lead acid or AGM batteries.
I also made my own SAE connector. Just go to an auto parts store like AutoZone. Buy a $3.00 SAE connector and splice it in to the wire on your charger/maintainer.
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mark.lb said:
I own two NOCO Genius charger/maintainers. My Scout and FTR both have LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) batteries and the NOCO chargers have a lithium setting. They also have a setting for standard lead acid or AGM batteries.
I also made my own SAE connector. Just go to an auto parts store like AutoZone. Buy a $3.00 SAE connector and splice it in to the wire on your charger/maintainer.
Click to expand...

Too late, already bought one... for 6 times the price 🥲

But thank you, for next time!
 
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