FTR 1200 - Base Model - ABS Switch Installation

[EPOCH6]

Re-post from the other forum, may as well be available here too.

Finally got around to wiring up an ABS switch for my base model 2019 FTR 1200. There are a number of ways to go about doing this, the way I'm doing it is probably the simplest and a fairly typical solution for bikes with non-switchable ABS.

This will, of course, cause your ECU to throw a few codes every time you flip the ABS switch. The codes will go away when you return the switch to the fused position. If check engine lights and error codes and warranties keep you up at night then don't dick around with your wiring. Error codes below:

SPN: 65557
FMI: 22

SPN: 65557
FMI: 23

SPN: 520322
FMI: 22

Oddly enough, none of the above codes are listed in the Service Manual nor are they searchable on Indian's website. I'll take that as a good sign, because it means that none of these codes correspond to any of the terrifying situations described in the Service Manual. Out of sight and out of mind... right?

You can flip the ABS Switch at any speed while riding and it works as expected, you do not need to stop moving or shut off the engine at any point. The Error Code light and ABS light will toggle on and off every time you flip the switch, the Check Engine light will go away after a few ABS-enabled rides.

Materials:

• 3 to 4 ft of 10 AWG wire
• 30 Amp Standard In-Line ATO Fuse Holder, Waterproof
• 12 Volt 20 Amp (or more) On-Off Toggle Switch
• 10-12 AWG Female Quick Connect, Insulated Crimp Terminals
• 10-12 AWG Male Quick Connect, Non-Insulated Crimp Terminals
• 10-12 AWG Insulated Butt Connectors
• Solder / Flux (optional)
• Heat Shrink
• Scotch 3M Super88 Electrical Tape (or any flame-retardant electrical tape rated for at least 105°C)
• Scotch 3M 130C Rubber Splicing Tape (optional, for waterproofing)
• 2 part Epoxy or Silicone

You should be able to find all of the above at your local auto parts and hardware stores.

Tools:

• Crimpers
• Wire Strippers
• Wire Cutters
• Zip Ties
• Knife
• Soldering Iron (optional)
• Dremel
• Drill
• Metal Files
• Heat Gun or Lighter

You're basically going to be pulling the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse from the underside of the engine and replacing it with this, a toggle switch with an inline fuse holder on one lead:



Step 1 - Pull the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse:



Step 2 - Insert the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse into the In-Line Fuse Holder





Step 3 - Crimp 2 Female Quick Connectors onto your length of 10 AWG Wire

Step 4 - Wrap about 1 ft with Super 88 Electrical Tape




Step 5 - Remove both the Right Side Fuse Box Cover and Left Side Wiring Cover

Step 6 - Run your length of wire between the front and rear cylinder, entering the left side of the frame and existing the right side next to the fuse box




Step 7 - Carve a nasty hole into the Right Side Fuse Box Cover for your Toggle Switch

Make sure you're aware of how much clearance your switch has, the grey line below indicates the edge of the fuse box.



Step 8 - Install your Toggle Switch into the Right Side Fuse Box Cover



I've hit the image limit and will continue this in the following post.

 

[EPOCH6]

Step 9 - Cut 1 of your 2 wires near the Left Side Wiring Cover and install your In-Line Fuse Holder, continue wrapping your length of wire in Super 88 wherever necessary

You can either splice and solder this or use butt connectors.



Step 10 - Weatherproof your Fuse Holder with 130C Rubber Splicing Tape and Super 88

I've decided to modify the Fuse Holder cap for use underneath the engine where it's more exposed.

Alternatively, you could buy a second Waterproof In-Line Fuse Holder and use the second cap here.



Step 11 - Secure your Fuse Holder to the existing wiring harness



Step 12 - Route your wires along the existing wiring harness behind the radiator, downward along the drain/vent tubes, and under the engine toward the ABS Valve Fuse Holder

Step 13 - Drill a hole in your weatherproof Fuse Holder cap, cut off the mounting tab, route your wires through the cap toward the ABS Valve Fuse Holder

You'll probably want to remove the other two fuses from their holders at this point, they will get in the way.

Step 14 - Terminate both wires with Male Quick Connects, heat shrink them to minimize the risk of shorting, insert them into the ABS Valve Fuse Holder, polarity does not matter



Step 15 - Connect the weatherproof cap to the ABS Valve Fuse Holder and weatherproof the nasty hole that you drilled in it

I used 2-part epoxy for this because my tube of silicone is 2 years old, you might want to use silicone instead, I don't know, it's your life.



Step 16 - Reinstall the other two fuses and tuck everything neatly into place where it won't be destroyed



Step 17 - Label your new ABS Switch with something that makes sense in case you sell your bike one day



Step 18 - Reinstall your skid plate. If you don't have a skid plate go build a skid plate.