2022 Carbon-R Review- Because I'm bored.

MacBayne

Active member
Two- Month review-

Decided to share my experience and opinion after 3600 km (2200 miles) on my FTR-R. I never knew the FTR existed until May 2022, btw.

Rider background- Canadian enlisted Paratrooper, Afghanistan vet, later commissioned an Air Force pilot, Medically retired at 35 y/o… childless hooligan, that actually teaches the equivalent of the American MSF in summers… Has had a race license for nigh-on a decade, but only shows up to a couple events per-year due to injuries in said service. Rode Japanese machines for 25 years, then went and bought a few European bikes, before getting the FTR-R.



Aesthetic Design- Fuck me, I’m in love. My only complaint is that when some people see it, they want to talk to me about it. I’m a little anti-social… I just wanna ride bikes and take naps. I have never experienced the phenomenon of looking good… lol



Wrenching- Not quite as convenient as KTM machines, but WAAAY easier than most manufacturers. I must say, though, holy hell… the fasteners are fucking junk, particularly the heads. I have done minimal wrenching on my FTR, with only doing track-prep and mounting luggage racks and windshield, but I’m seeing a 25% failure rate on the heads of the fasteners with one removal and reinstallation. I don’t use Snap-On (but a lot of my tools are pro-quality), but I also don’t use Harbor Freight tools. I use the same tools as I have on my dozens of other bikes, but Indian fasteners are absolute junk.


Build Quality- Out-of-the-box? Flawless, but I swear to raptorjesus, the fasteners seem to be “one-time use, only.”

Engine Performance- I’m a sport bike guy… so this bike tickles me pink off the line. I must say, though when doing cruising speeds and then wanting acceleration, the torque flat spot between 4k and 6k RPM is annoying as frig. I am almost certain it is put there on purpose to mitigate power wheelies/loss-of-traction (and therefore; crashes) on the ham-fisted, for safety, but goddammit… I am sometimes ham-fisted on purpose to make wheelies. Gimme the same “rip-your-arms-off-torque” you give me off of idle. FFS!

The cruise control is also annoying upon undulating or downward ground. The simply binary on/off fueling is annoying.

WTF is with the unwanted surging on deceleration? The surging should simply just not exist. I swear, interns wrote the code for the fueling… lol.

I know a flash will fix the engine issues, and I will be doing that over the winter.

Chassis Performance- Absolutely great. A big reason for me to get this bike was the suspension. Not only is it just good, but I have to tools to service it. I love Ohlins and WP. It’s not aftermarket, but it’s better than any other OEM offer, including WP/KTM.



I need new springs because I am fat and presently, the OEM springs are preloaded too much and thus, top-out. It’s not necessarily a strike against Polaris, but a general strike against most manufacturers… 175 lb riders don’t exist… lol. Spring your bikes for the 200-lb-plus actual buyers of your machines!

The wheelbase, rake, and trail are not exactly sport, but they are exactly what I wanted… more “grown up,” but still more aggressive than steering a container ship.



She turns well, given her limits. What I mean is that the FTR runs-out-of-lean before the chassis gets challenged. Parts will drag/self-clearance before the geometry, and especially suspension (properly set) become any sort of issue. Like stated before, I’m a racer… the FTR’s limit of 43 degrees of lean is the performance limit.

Brakes- Sweet. Awesome. Shortly after buying the machine, my boots unscrewed the rear brake reservoir and I lost the seal and cap, (the cap was in the parking lot at work) and so I bled the brakes, personally after receiving the warrantied parts. From the factory, the brake response is “okay.” After a good bleed, the brake response is super. The MC, lines, calipers, and pads are a great street combo. I admit that I will be replacing the pads for a compound with more bite, the OEM pads performed well enough at “expert” pace, on-track, but a more aggressive compound is just a comfort mod… but only after the OEM need replacing.

Aftermarket support, or should I say “Add-on availability”- pretty darned good from the OEM, but third-party is absolute shite compared to Japanese machines. After more lurking and investigation, I am sure that I will find compatibility, like I found with rearsets, recently.

The R Carbon is damned-near-perfect WRT parts and ergonomics, for me, so aftermarket isn’t so great of a hurdle.



Conclusion- When I bought the machine, I was floored by the low-end torque and loved it. I was pleased and satisfied with the chassis, suspension, ergonomics and brakes.



As time has passed, I have found that the chassis, suspension, ergonomics, and brakes are still great.

The engine mapping is junk.

The excitement I have for winter is that I can flash my ECU…

Polaris hit a Home Run with this machine. They missed the Grand Slam with simple code.
 

edgelett

Well-known member
Nice review!
the surging you're experiencing when downshifting is what we long term owners unlovingly refer to as the 'blip'.
Basically, to counter riders who don't know you're supposed to keep revs at a certain level when downshifting, the FTR does it automatically.
and it sucks.
They're not the only ones to do it though, a few others are doing this lately. I think some Kawasakis do it now>
The good news is when you get your ECU flashed, it will be gone ;)
 

MacBayne

Active member
Nice review!
the surging you're experiencing when downshifting is what we long term owners unlovingly refer to as the 'blip'.
Basically, to counter riders who don't know you're supposed to keep revs at a certain level when downshifting, the FTR does it automatically.
and it sucks.
They're not the only ones to do it though, a few others are doing this lately. I think some Kawasakis do it now>
The good news is when you get your ECU flashed, it will be gone ;)
I want predictable engine braking! Why would I want a computer to tell me what I want?! If it was consistent and predictable I could adapt... but I find myself twisting off the throttle to turn off that shit...

Adding fuel when I want to slow down is simply unsafe...

Perfection- ruined. lol
 

edgelett

Well-known member
oh I don't disagree with you. some manufacturers call it a 'safety feature' when it's the opposite
but at least when you get your ECU tuned it will fix it.
 

FTR London

Well-known member
The good news is when you get your ECU flashed, it will be gone ;)
Mine is still there on the 19, following the V6 Lloydz bench tune - albeit to a lesser extent.

In respect of the OP, the jerky cruise control on undulating surfaces and bumps is indeed beyond irritating.
The excitement I have for winter is that I can flash my ECU…
It's a revelation and transforms the bike, particularly with an astute complimentary choice of exhaust system - although as I said there are one or two idiosyncracies that remain. I don't mind that personality and it's nothing you can't ride around.
 

MacBayne

Active member
Mine is still there on the 19, following the V6 Lloydz bench tune - albeit to a lesser extent.

In respect of the OP, the jerky cruise control on undulating surfaces and bumps is indeed beyond irritating.

It's a revelation and transforms the bike, particularly with an astute complimentary choice of exhaust system - although as I said there are one or two idiosyncracies that remain. I don't mind that personality and it's nothing you can't ride around.
WRT the flat spot being reduced, but still present with that tune, do you know of any other tunes that will remove it? I can accept if it cannot be eliminated, completely. A/F, emissions, engineer's intent, and simple limits of physics, all play a factor in tuning.

Given my experience with full exhaust systems (ie, remove the Cat), albeit with Japanese SS, they do well for top end performance and destroy low and midrange. That's exactly where this bike lives... A draw for me for the Carbon was the Akra cans, whilst keeping the Cat. Any system that improves mid range without destroying low range would pique my interest... hell, I have no interest in changing the air filter to anything but OEM if, but, to keep it smooth.
 

MacBayne

Active member
OMJ... I just have to add, since I forgot to in the original post...

What the actual fuck is up with trying to fill this thing with gas? I could fill my pickup, faster.
 

edgelett

Well-known member
OMJ... I just have to add, since I forgot to in the original post...

What the actual fuck is up with trying to fill this thing with gas? I could fill my pickup, faster.
haha yeah it's crappy.
Thankfully my other bike is the same so it doesn't bother me. but it drives most people insane lol
 

MacBayne

Active member
I am curious as to drilling a venting hole in the filler neck toward the front, may help... winter project, I guess.

I never really noticed since I've been filling from a jerry can most of the time...
 

chs

New member
I am curious as to drilling a venting hole in the filler neck toward the front, may help... winter project, I guess.

I never really noticed since I've been filling from a jerry can most of the time...
I always fuel at home, works great for the first 150km. Problem i have is a lot of pumps will work at high flow rate only. Slowly learning which stations will run at a low flow, depends on the specific pump. Otherwise you end up with fuel splashing out onto the air box cover 😒 I carry a water bottle and rag in my tail bag for it
 

Breto

Well-known member
I am curious as to drilling a venting hole in the filler neck toward the front, may help... winter project, I guess.

I never really noticed since I've been filling from a jerry can most of the time...
I don’t think that will help at all. It’s the two narrow passages that are the problem that run down to the under seat area. I stand mine upright at the pump and just fill it slowly. You’ll get a full tank eventually. If you leave it on the side stand it’ll just keep clicking off and kicking back at you. 👍😎
 

MacBayne

Active member
After more research, my hunch seems to be affirmed. Put a vent hole at the top-most part of the rear section of the tank, run that line to another hole in the filler neck to provide venting. It should let air escape from the rear, without going through the fuel that is already in place... I will confirm my BS theory over the winter.
 

Charliemurphay

Well-known member
FWIW there is already a vent back there that ties into the vent system (or the canister for CA and Euro bikes). Front and rear vents circled.

609BB1AD-7115-4FA3-85FC-8BD115193781.jpeg
 

cupcake_mike

Active member
After more research, my hunch seems to be affirmed. Put a vent hole at the top-most part of the rear section of the tank, run that line to another hole in the filler neck to provide venting. It should let air escape from the rear, without going through the fuel that is already in place... I will confirm my BS theory over the winter.

Yeah, as Charlie shows, the vent it already there. Another owner actually hooked a vacuum pump to the tank, when his bike was down, and the tank didn't fill any faster. I believe he found that there are 2 very small channels just inside the filer neck that allow fuel to pass into the tank and they are the "choke" point of the system. No way around them other than to build a new tank.
 

Breto

Well-known member
Yeah, as Charlie shows, the vent it already there. Another owner actually hooked a vacuum pump to the tank, when his bike was down, and the tank didn't fill any faster. I believe he found that there are 2 very small channels just inside the filer neck that allow fuel to pass into the tank and they are the "choke" point of the system. No way around them other than to build a new tank.
Yep that’s what I said before man…it’s those narrow Chanel’s.
 

Indian Jim

New member
I find the longer I am at the pump the more women make it over to comment on what a sweet ass she has.
 

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