Engine Stalls and CEL on right after...

Hi Guys

I know most of you guys will say this is to be fixed by a tuner, but I am gonna let this out anyway as i just got it for 2 weeks with 400km on the odometer.
It's a nice day out so I took it out for a spin along the coast to enjoy the sunshine and breeze and ocean view. Everything is perfect until I was close to home while waiting on the traffic light, I shifted to gear 1 on green and the sound of changing gear was very much like what you have on a Harley with a bang, then the engine stalled the first time after the purchase. Check Engine Light in on the ride command display and it did the same for the next two traffic light in a row so I had to hold my clutch instead of putting it in neutral fearing it might do it again.

I checked the diagnostic which shows two things as shown in the pic attached. i called up the dealer who asked me to power cycled the bike for couple of times before the code went, but CEL stayed on. They said it might have to take couple of rides to clear and nothing new.

So I wonder if this matches the symptom that has been resolved by a tuner (PV3/PV4 from Dynojet alike...) by people who shared the same issue as I did. I am still waiting for the 500miles init maintenance to come up so I still have time to make that decision... Many thanks in advance!

Regards
Jay20240531_151041.jpg20240531_151111.jpg
 

MacBayne

Active member
I'd bet a Kitkat, that the battery potential code is the cause of the stall.

P1566 means that your battery voltage is low. That can be caused by a lot of things. Time to get a multimeter and test some things. I can walk you through it, if you want. Test the battery voltage after it has sat for a day or two... and test the voltage when the bike is at idle, and then test it at 3k rpm. With those 3 numbers I can tell you where the problem is WRT that code.
 
I'd bet a Kitkat, that the battery potential code is the cause of the stall.

P1566 means that your battery voltage is low. That can be caused by a lot of things. Time to get a multimeter and test some things. I can walk you through it, if you want. Test the battery voltage after it has sat for a day or two... and test the voltage when the bike is at idle, and then test it at 3k rpm. With those 3 numbers I can tell you where the problem is WRT that code.
Hi there

thanks for your suggestion.
The kitkat is yours if it turns out to be the battery.;)

but it's new battery when puchased 2 weeks ago from the dealer... i would check the values and get back as my usb dongle has the reading of voltage display real time. thanks!
 
well, here goes... i rode it 2 days ago and the reading is 12.9 with bike switched off, 14.3 when started,then warmed up at 14.4 and stayed that way when revving to 3k in neutral
I'd bet a Kitkat, that the battery potential code is the cause of the stall.

P1566 means that your battery voltage is low. That can be caused by a lot of things. Time to get a multimeter and test some things. I can walk you through it, if you want. Test the battery voltage after it has sat for a day or two... and test the voltage when the bike is at idle, and then test it at 3k rpm. With those 3 numbers I can tell you where the problem is WRT that code.
 

MacBayne

Active member
I was not betting that the battery was the issue. I was betting that the battery potential code was the source of the stalling. Huge difference.
Are you sure that the battery was new when you purchased the machine? Are you sure that you pulled in the clutch when the bike made bad noises and stopped running?
 
I was not betting that the battery was the issue. I was betting that the battery potential code was the source of the stalling. Huge difference.
Are you sure that the battery was new when you purchased the machine? Are you sure that you pulled in the clutch when the bike made bad noises and stopped running?
yes battery was new when purchase, these voltages look good to me tho...

been riding a while now (10+ yrs)so yes clutch was pulled all the way in before putting it to 1st gear then it stalled
 

BugEyes

New member
I would say this is the dealer's problem. They need to sort this out for you - it's not normal on a new bike. I am assuming this is a 2022 from the pictures: here in Canada you'd also likely still have a few months left on the Indian warranty, but I'm not sure how it works where you are. Long story short, this shouldn't be your issue to figure out. I love my '22 Carbon: runs like a top, handles like greased lightning, bellows like the trumpets of hell while trying to rip my arms out at the shoulder, and otherwise doesn't seem to like having the front wheel on the pavement much. You'll find a lot of quibbling and dissecting of various issues on the FTR forums, but we are all just nerds picking apart a somewhat flawed but beautiful machine. I hope you get this sorted out, and otherwise welcome to this little lunatic tribe.
 

MacBayne

Active member
And here we are, back at my original question... are you sure the battery was new when you purchased the machine? New to you is not new. Sitting in a machine for 3 years before you bought it is not new. Motorcycle batteries don't last long without being used.

I get the sense that you bought the machine "new." If that is the case, this is a Warranty issue.

I finally have to ask, how many times have you been rear-ended? You sit at a light and wait for it to turn green and THEN put it in gear? Shit like that is why I do not ride in groups... too many 'tards not thinking ahead.
 
And here we are, back at my original question... are you sure the battery was new when you purchased the machine? New to you is not new. Sitting in a machine for 3 years before you bought it is not new. Motorcycle batteries don't last long without being used.

I get the sense that you bought the machine "new." If that is the case, this is a Warranty issue.

I finally have to ask, how many times have you been rear-ended? You sit at a light and wait for it to turn green and THEN put it in gear? Shit like that is why I do not ride in groups... too many 'tards not thinking ahead.
i asked the battery to be replaced as this was pulled from the leftover stock 2 years ago time i signed the contract so yes again, i am pretty sure, not sure where you are getting at tbh... so the voltages look bad or...?

i have never been rear ended in my riding life as i only ride with people i know or i will ride alone. again, not sure what this have anything to do with my engine stall issue?
 
I would say this is the dealer's problem. They need to sort this out for you - it's not normal on a new bike. I am assuming this is a 2022 from the pictures: here in Canada you'd also likely still have a few months left on the Indian warranty, but I'm not sure how it works where you are. Long story short, this shouldn't be your issue to figure out. I love my '22 Carbon: runs like a top, handles like greased lightning, bellows like the trumpets of hell while trying to rip my arms out at the shoulder, and otherwise doesn't seem to like having the front wheel on the pavement much. You'll find a lot of quibbling and dissecting of various issues on the FTR forums, but we are all just nerds picking apart a somewhat flawed but beautiful machine. I hope you get this sorted out, and otherwise welcome to this little lunatic tribe.
it's true and i bought it as new though it's from the leftover stock so the warranty just began less than 1 month back. trouble is... nearest dealership is 500 miles away so i would need to be roughly certain what i am getting at is something i cant sort out myself before the last resort...

thanks for the good will and yes, i will see that beast after breaking in and a proper tuning(bike has this power&torque limiter upon purchase)
 

BugEyes

New member
it's true and i bought it as new though it's from the leftover stock so the warranty just began less than 1 month back. trouble is... nearest dealership is 500 miles away so i would need to be roughly certain what i am getting at is something i cant sort out myself before the last resort...

thanks for the good will and yes, i will see that beast after breaking in and a proper tuning(bike has this power&torque limiter upon purchase)
It's unfortunate you are so far from a dealer. At the same time, it's amazing you found this one New Old Stock! Mine was 18 months old and came with 3000km already on the clock. Anyway, good luck, and I hope you can start enjoying the bike to its full potential soon. You might try signing up on the Facebook User Group "INDIAN Motorcycle FTR1200 owners" and posting your issue; there are a lot of knowledgeable riders on that group that might be able to help.
 

BugEyes

New member
Having a bad “new battery” isn’t uncommon. The Polaris yusa batteries are notorious for failing.
I’ve heard this as well, but the OP’s voltage readings (see above) seem pretty good to me… I haven’t seen this error code pop up anywhere online before, have you?
 

ferraiolo1

2021-2024 IMR Ambassador
Staff member
He needs to measure the voltage when the start button is clicked. There are also fuses under the battery, if they are loose it won’t crank ether
 

MacBayne

Active member
First off... I apologize for name-calling. I had a bad day, but that does not excuse my behavior. Sorry, sir.

Where and how is the USB dongle working? I may have grey hair, but I just don't understand where this dongle is getting it's info. If it is plugged into the bike, that is the wrong place to get info. You need to use a multimeter.

Dealers are full of shit. I will never apologize for that statement... it is too true.

You asked for a new battery, but did you confirm? Look up how/where to find your battery date of manufacture.

Long and short of it, ride it. If you keep having issues, it's a dealer's problem. That is where the conundrum starts.

If you have a local mechanic, could you take it to him and pay him for his time to find the issue and then take it back to the dealer if it is a warranty issue?

The numbers that you posted as far as voltage is concerned look good. This may not be electrical, but related to that "clunk" that you described... but it could also be electrical... lol?

With language barrier/info source issues, it may just be worth it to take it to a local mechanic to assess and diagnose, then take it to the dealer if the time/money works out.
But for God's sake, do not simply throw money at the machine by buying parts like tuners and flashers until you know the root of the problem. I am a member of a few motorcycle forums and when I try to walk people through electrical things, instead of being honest and telling me that they don't understand, they start buying stuff and throwing money at the problem to try to fix things without actually finding the problem, first.

Pay the pro to find the problem. Then decide what your time is worth, versus paying to fix it locally.
 

K1000

Active member
Site Supporter
OP mentions that power and torque limitation was applied to his bike. I wonder how that was done and whether it might have anything to do with these problems.
Talking out of my ass here - just an idea.
 
OP mentions that power and torque limitation was applied to his bike. I wonder how that was done and whether it might have anything to do with these problems.
Talking out of my ass here - just an idea.
nah, it's a regulatory restriction here in China. all foreign bikes/cars come in this way or ... they can stay out :) we have this certification the manufacturer has to get before they can be considered imported in here then the gov'mnt will issue a tiny-weeny sticker with CCC on them. That sticker, my friend, is why there's a limiter on my bike. So there goes something you might not have known or be interested in at all...

so now my bike has 90hp in power and 90nm something for torque instead of 120hp and 89ft pound per advertised. We also call these kinda behavior 'castration' in Chinese which is quite brutal yet accurate... 😣
 
First off... I apologize for name-calling. I had a bad day, but that does not excuse my behavior. Sorry, sir.

Where and how is the USB dongle working? I may have grey hair, but I just don't understand where this dongle is getting it's info. If it is plugged into the bike, that is the wrong place to get info. You need to use a multimeter.

Dealers are full of shit. I will never apologize for that statement... it is too true.

You asked for a new battery, but did you confirm? Look up how/where to find your battery date of manufacture.

Long and short of it, ride it. If you keep having issues, it's a dealer's problem. That is where the conundrum starts.

If you have a local mechanic, could you take it to him and pay him for his time to find the issue and then take it back to the dealer if it is a warranty issue?

The numbers that you posted as far as voltage is concerned look good. This may not be electrical, but related to that "clunk" that you described... but it could also be electrical... lol?

With language barrier/info source issues, it may just be worth it to take it to a local mechanic to assess and diagnose, then take it to the dealer if the time/money works out.
But for God's sake, do not simply throw money at the machine by buying parts like tuners and flashers until you know the root of the problem. I am a member of a few motorcycle forums and when I try to walk people through electrical things, instead of being honest and telling me that they don't understand, they start buying stuff and throwing money at the problem to try to fix things without actually finding the problem, first.

Pay the pro to find the problem. Then decide what your time is worth, versus paying to fix it locally.
i am only trying to clarify things up and not really blaming anyone, so hey, we are good if that's what you mean :)

as for throwing money to buy me out of the situation thing... you are right, partially, as said in my reply to k1000 in another reply, the DJ tuning purchase was made to restore the bike to its full potential, along its way if it 'magically' fixes my problem, great, if not, i am gonna do that tuning regardless to lift the 'ceiling' they set up for the power and torque because i don't settle until i get the bike i really paid for.

I also found some workaround for this issue that gives me grief... before i put in gear and get going when the light turns green, I rev the engine to get back to 2 cylinders running instead of the single cylinder status. I rode it yesterday for around 120km without any stalls or CEL occasion, not even once. I could just switch off that cylinder shut function and leave it like that but i am okay with revving the engine and go so to spare my body parts from the heat and save some petrol... even a little, lol

Many thanks man for the help, I will watch that battery when the weather gets cold and I will get the dealer for sure if it's some showstopper.
 
It's unfortunate you are so far from a dealer. At the same time, it's amazing you found this one New Old Stock! Mine was 18 months old and came with 3000km already on the clock. Anyway, good luck, and I hope you can start enjoying the bike to its full potential soon. You might try signing up on the Facebook User Group "INDIAN Motorcycle FTR1200 owners" and posting your issue; there are a lot of knowledgeable riders on that group that might be able to help.
thanks ! and definitely i will check em out
 

K1000

Active member
Site Supporter
nah, it's a regulatory restriction here in China. all foreign bikes/cars come in this way or ... they can stay out :) we have this certification the manufacturer has to get before they can be considered imported in here then the gov'mnt will issue a tiny-weeny sticker with CCC on them. That sticker, my friend, is why there's a limiter on my bike. So there goes something you might not have known or be interested in at all...

so now my bike has 90hp in power and 90nm something for torque instead of 120hp and 89ft pound per advertised. We also call these kinda behavior 'castration' in Chinese which is quite brutal yet accurate... 😣

Interesting. There have been similar limits in some European countries. In France all motorcycles had to be limited to 100 hp for a while (I think this has been lifted - not sure, it's confusing). In Spain new riders may only ride motorcycles limited to 48 cv for the first 2 years (you can buy any motorcycle, but you must limit it if it exceeds).
 
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