I would trade USA HP for all the trick little 250 and 400cc bikes Europe always got that we didn't.
$2500??? I’ve taken a few of them to the US over the years for UK people that miss them. Maybe not again though 😳It goes both ways I think - some stuff that you have is not available here, and vice versa. Not necessarily just motorcycles, but also electronic gadgets and stuff. Or just movies, which always used to come later here, sometimes months later (this can be now circumvented using VPNs).
There have been some hilarious cases, like the Kinder Surprise Eggs - chocolate eggs with little plastic toys inside. They are popular in Europe, but illegal in the U.S. You can get a $2500 fine per egg if caught importing them 😅
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Oh, and the Cyber Truck. We don't have the Cyber Truck (yet) 😄
$2500??? I’ve taken a few of them to the US over the years for UK people that miss them. Maybe not again though 😳
First off... I apologize for name-calling. I had a bad day, but that does not excuse my behavior. Sorry, sir.
Where and how is the USB dongle working? I may have grey hair, but I just don't understand where this dongle is getting it's info. If it is plugged into the bike, that is the wrong place to get info. You need to use a multimeter.
Dealers are full of shit. I will never apologize for that statement... it is too true.
You asked for a new battery, but did you confirm? Look up how/where to find your battery date of manufacture.
Long and short of it, ride it. If you keep having issues, it's a dealer's problem. That is where the conundrum starts.
If you have a local mechanic, could you take it to him and pay him for his time to find the issue and then take it back to the dealer if it is a warranty issue?
The numbers that you posted as far as voltage is concerned look good. This may not be electrical, but related to that "clunk" that you described... but it could also be electrical... lol?
With language barrier/info source issues, it may just be worth it to take it to a local mechanic to assess and diagnose, then take it to the dealer if the time/money works out.
But for God's sake, do not simply throw money at the machine by buying parts like tuners and flashers until you know the root of the problem. I am a member of a few motorcycle forums and when I try to walk people through electrical things, instead of being honest and telling me that they don't understand, they start buying stuff and throwing money at the problem to try to fix things without actually finding the problem, first.
Pay the pro to find the problem. Then decide what your time is worth, versus paying to fix it locally.
THERE is your issue. These machines are TERRIBLE with that cylinder status BS.i am only trying to clarify things up and not really blaming anyone, so hey, we are good if that's what you mean
as for throwing money to buy me out of the situation thing... you are right, partially, as said in my reply to k1000 in another reply, the DJ tuning purchase was made to restore the bike to its full potential, along its way if it 'magically' fixes my problem, great, if not, i am gonna do that tuning regardless to lift the 'ceiling' they set up for the power and torque because i don't settle until i get the bike i really paid for.
I also found some workaround for this issue that gives me grief... before i put in gear and get going when the light turns green, I rev the engine to get back to 2 cylinders running instead of the single cylinder status. I rode it yesterday for around 120km without any stalls or CEL occasion, not even once. I could just switch off that cylinder shut function and leave it like that but i am okay with revving the engine and go so to spare my body parts from the heat and save some petrol... even a little, lol
Many thanks man for the help, I will watch that battery when the weather gets cold and I will get the dealer for sure if it's some showstopper.
top of my to-do list next time i switch it on then. thx!THERE is your issue. These machines are TERRIBLE with that cylinder status BS.
I never thought to ask if you had that cylinder Shut-off thingy turned off, or on. Hell, even my salesman, when walking me through how to use the machine upon purchase told me that it is shitty... leave that mode off.
The cylinder mode thing is just marketing lies and gimmicks.
that's what i did, disabled the 'deactivation' feature... but still no excuse that it would cause a stall if this is , supposedly , a fully-functioning feature coming with the bike. I don't think they dare to put a statement in user manual saying a twist required before the clutch when this is on...I leave cylinder deactivation off until it gets to about 95°F outside and I’m stuck in traffic. Drops the engine temperature about 5-10 degrees from 208 to 198 or so. But definitely turn the throttle a little before engaging the clutch otherwise you have a 600cc thumper trying to pull the weight of the bike with the wrong counterweight and ignition timing.
I don't think they dare to put a statement in user manual saying a twist required before the clutch when this is on...
just out of curiosity, how Harleys handle this as i know they had this feature offered a few years back....? can't remember it was TC or M8 but cylinder deactivation has been around for some time nowTrue but I kind of understand why it’s difficult to handle. You can’t really get effective pulling power at idle on one cylinder from an engine built to be a 60º V-twin. They raise the idle as it is simply to keep it going while not moving. Perhaps a sensor can see the initial clutch release a few mm’s when in first gear would pop it back to 2 cylinders even without throttle, but not sure there’s enough sensor accuracy there on the existing bikes. Only throttle brings it back to 2 cylinders. Just leave it off until your legs get scorched then pop in on as needed!