Exhaust S&S Slip-on or Jekyll&Hyde

Biganto5

New member
Hi All,

i want to start this thread for the Europeans in this forum. The question of the exhaust is obvoisly a bit more difficult by meeting all the Euro4 regulations. So removing cat or baffles does not work *argh*
So my question is if anyone had the chance to hear the S&S Slip-on and the Jekyll and Hyde. The price difference is enormous, but is the sound way better with the valve?
Looking forward to your thoughts on this.
Best,
Biganto5
 

K9F

Well-known member
Jekyll & Hyde are amazing. I visited their stand at a motorcycle festival in Hamburg. I have also downloaded their catalog for my other motorcycle. The different finishes, headers and end caps for the exhaust you choose are numerous.

Price for this on my other bike £3200 or $4378 or Euro 3600

Jekyll & Hyde all day every day for me on my other steed. I will get a set if they bring in noise regulation in the UK as they are fully adjustable with three different modes at the push of a button. Until they do my Vance & Hines Big Radius will have to do.

Mind you the Jekyll & Hyde exhaust for the FTR doesn't look as cool as the S & S in fact it looks a bit like a toilet waste pipe which is quite disappointing.

In answer to your question, for the FTR save a bucket load of cash and buy the S & S (looks way cooler) and you'll have money left over for another 'latest must have' that you 'don't really need!'
 

Biganto5

New member
Thank you for the quick reply!
Agree on the look, s & s isch sportier and clears the rear wheel more.

i have heard the jekyll as well on a festival in Zurich. It was extremly loud and enjoyable. But it was on a festival and inside a convention room.

the valves are definately a cool thing, but to be honest i would rarely run it closed. But if with the open valve the sound is much better then the s&s i would probably go with the jekyll.
 

K9F

Well-known member
They are horrendously priced but with everything automotive in Germany the cost of going through R & D and getting the obligatory TUV approval is an expensive route. Then again the workmanship is fantastic and the choices of finish and piece parts are not offered by many other exhaust manufacturers. To purchase them for noise fully open all the time is questionable at best, mine would be purely to stay on the side of legality and have the choice to open it up when and if the circumstances allow?
 

Murdock

Active member
I looked for the J&H already before their final release and watched all the teaser videos. I waited for the final design ... but they did not change it and it looks like a beta version. The price in Germany would be around 2.200€ for the FTR, what is still a lot of money for an exhaust. So, I stepped away from the idea and will probably decide for the S&S. I don't look for extremely loud anyway.
 

Biganto5

New member
Well only riding it open maybe was a bit too euphoric. But if with the valves closed it is like stock, maybe little deeper sound this will work. The question is really if the valves are open, if by then it will be much better sounding like the S&S. just see many custom companies running only jekyll&Hyde in europe. Tank machine in France to name one.

I hope a dealer somewhere close in my region is getting a Jekyll and Hyde to experience it live in natural circumstances.

For those questioning, SC Project is not planning to have a EURO4 version of their slip-on for the FTR. I was writing directly with them. Maybe it changes we will see.
 

J0988

Member
Not a European, but I own the S&S slip-on. I’d say go for the S&S. Jekyll and Hyde doesn’t look as good IMO, and too expensive. The S&S is better looking and you still get the benefits of some weight saving and better air flow than stock. It’s also reasonably priced. The Vance and Hines slip-on for my Triumph was almost double the price.

The only thing I’d warn about is, if the EURO4 version doesn’t allow you to remove the Db reducer, don’t expect too much more volume. It has a slightly deeper note, but not much louder than stock.
 
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Wayne

Active member
I am running the S&S slip with the Akropovic Titanium header and no cat. It sounds great but is pretty loud and that is with the reducer still in. Hug weight savings overall.
 

J0988

Member
Should’ve clarified, if you leave in the Db reducer, and keep the catalytic converter, it’s not much louder than stock.
 
I am running the S&S slip with the Akropovic Titanium header and no cat. It sounds great but is pretty loud and that is with the reducer still in. Hug weight savings overall.
Hey buddy; I'm really glad I came across your post. Can you walk me through your exact way of doing it? Meaning, did you do ONE first, then the other, then tuned it? Cuz I'd love to put on the S&S Slip-On and keep the cat until I can afford the Titanium Akro header. But I know at a certain point; most likely when the cat is removed; I'm going to be forced to tune it, or flash the ECU.

Can I see your bike? Thanks so much for letting me know about the weight savings too... I'm making the trip to Daytona Beach, FL from Dallas, TX on March 3rd and I'm adding a big windshield; and some luggage so if I can offset it a bit with things like removing the ladder default rear License holder with a tuck kit underneath the seat, and anything else you'd recommend, like the pipe things.
 

Wayne

Active member
I did mine all in one shot. I bought the header, mid pipe and S&S slip on at the same time. You don' necessarily have to do it that way. You could just add the slip on by itself. I would recommend a tune however even with just the slip on since stock the bike already is lean and the slip on will only make it run leaner. There are free tunes for just the slip on on the Power Vison website but of course you will need the PV3 to load it. I had Ryan at Indian of Charlotte create a custom tune for the way I have the bike set up now. I added the rally bars which are 2 inches higher which makes it a bit more comfortable for longer rides. I found the stock seat uncomfortable for anything over an hour long ride so I replaced it with a Corbin seat. I was fortunate that my dealer gave me $2k in Indian credit so I was able to change the bars, foot pegs, shifter and rear break levers. I will have good weather this weekend and will be taking out the bike out on Sunday so I will get some pictures and forward them on.

It sounds as if you may be going to Bike Week. If so I'm envious. I had thought about flying to the South East perhaps Savanna or Atlanta and renting a bike for the ride to Daytona since my Sturgis plans fell through last summer. I would ride there from home but Northern California to Daytona is one long haul. I didn't make plans because all the uncertainty around Covid. If you
are going to Daytona I believe Indian of Charlotte will have their people there so you may want to pay them a visit. From what I hear they are some of the most knowledgeable in the country regarding the FTR.
 
I did mine all in one shot. I bought the header, mid pipe and S&S slip on at the same time. You don' necessarily have to do it that way. You could just add the slip on by itself. I would recommend a tune however even with just the slip on since stock the bike already is lean and the slip on will only make it run leaner. There are free tunes for just the slip on on the Power Vison website but of course you will need the PV3 to load it. I had Ryan at Indian of Charlotte create a custom tune for the way I have the bike set up now. I added the rally bars which are 2 inches higher which makes it a bit more comfortable for longer rides. I found the stock seat uncomfortable for anything over an hour long ride so I replaced it with a Corbin seat. I was fortunate that my dealer gave me $2k in Indian credit so I was able to change the bars, foot pegs, shifter and rear break levers. I will have good weather this weekend and will be taking out the bike out on Sunday so I will get some pictures and forward them on.

It sounds as if you may be going to Bike Week. If so I'm envious. I had thought about flying to the South East perhaps Savanna or Atlanta and renting a bike for the ride to Daytona since my Sturgis plans fell through last summer. I would ride there from home but Northern California to Daytona is one long haul. I didn't make plans because all the uncertainty around Covid. If you
are going to Daytona I believe Indian of Charlotte will have their people there so you may want to pay them a visit. From what I hear they are some of the most knowledgeable in the country regarding the FTR.
First off thank so much for the explanation; I'm going to just get the PV3, seems like I have the easier of the 2 ways to tune it so I'm going to make it happen after my 600 mile service. Which I"m halfway there now.

I put on a Puig windshield today, only tested up to like 60 MPH but I don't think it's quite high enough. Probably going to HAVE to pickup this extension thing that clips on and apparently can really make the difference.... prepping for Bike Week trip; you're right we're heading there from Dallas, TX. I'm prolly going to HAVE to use the stock seat but I've been looking into strapping on gel pad or different style pads that help a lot apparently.
 

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Max Kool

Well-known member
You're never going to be out of the wind blast with a small screen. That really requires a barn door and can introduce very annoying side effects like helmet buffeting and sensitivity to cross-winds and passing big trucks.
 

Wayne

Active member
Jacob, here are a few photos of the exhaust to give you an idea of the looks.
 

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Jacob, here are a few photos of the exhaust to give you an idea of the looks.
Ugh man this is exactly what I wnat essentially. Just not 100% on S&S yet; either way until I get a PV-3 none of it is on the table. I'll hit 600 miles within the next 2 weeks, get the first service done and then; wait what's the second service interval? Anyone know off the top of their heads? Here's my fear:

I pick it back up from it's 1st service, immediately take it home, install a cat delete &link pipe; and since that's all I'll be able to be able to afford before the Daytona bike week trip; I reach out to Ryan @ Lloyds I'm guessing? Show him what I've done; cat delete w/ stock mufflers and stock headers, then tune it.

My fear is that when I walk into hte second service; they immediately flag my bike and that's that. I'm sure it doesn't happen much unless there is an actual problem with the bike but; with the PV-3 it says it's easy to flash it back to stock; but I've also seen how easy it is for Polaris to see it's been flashed back. So I have no choice but to take the risk right?

Also for those iwth PV-3... when you got it, and say you've also got the TOCE link cat delete pipe the same day, your plan is to keep the muffler stock for now; I can remove the cat and install the cat delete link pipe by itself right? And with the PV-3, just tune it from there? Then whe nI get back from Florida and have time to pickup TOCE's or Akro's full exhaust, headers and all, then I do that and re-tune.

Any help bois and gurls? I"m so confused. I know for a fact my bike idles at 1200/1150/1200 when cold, or even when not cold just whenever it's the BIKE that's not warmed up.
 

Max Kool

Well-known member
I think it’s simple, if you’re really afraid you bike may be flagged, don’t tune it.

If you want a good running bike, tune it.

(serious, your dealer should be able to answer your questions, I bet they modify and tune bikes too...)
 

Wayne

Active member
Ugh man this is exactly what I wnat essentially. Just not 100% on S&S yet; either way until I get a PV-3 none of it is on the table. I'll hit 600 miles within the next 2 weeks, get the first service done and then; wait what's the second service interval? Anyone know off the top of their heads? Here's my fear:

I pick it back up from it's 1st service, immediately take it home, install a cat delete &link pipe; and since that's all I'll be able to be able to afford before the Daytona bike week trip; I reach out to Ryan @ Lloyds I'm guessing? Show him what I've done; cat delete w/ stock mufflers and stock headers, then tune it.

My fear is that when I walk into hte second service; they immediately flag my bike and that's that. I'm sure it doesn't happen much unless there is an actual problem with the bike but; with the PV-3 it says it's easy to flash it back to stock; but I've also seen how easy it is for Polaris to see it's been flashed back. So I have no choice but to take the risk right?

Also for those iwth PV-3... when you got it, and say you've also got the TOCE link cat delete pipe the same day, your plan is to keep the muffler stock for now; I can remove the cat and install the cat delete link pipe by itself right? And with the PV-3, just tune it from there? Then whe nI get back from Florida and have time to pickup TOCE's or Akro's full exhaust, headers and all, then I do that and re-tune.

Any help bois and gurls? I"m so confused. I know for a fact my bike idles at 1200/1150/1200 when cold, or even when not cold just whenever it's the BIKE that's not warmed up.
With regard to the warranty question; I have seen many others ask the same question but I have not heard that anyone knew the answer or had an issue. I personally don't know the answer. I'm not too worried either way since I do this type of modifications regularly without any issue. I'm a motocross guy and all of my bikes get modified but they are for closed course competition and are not really warrantied. I know Harley has never made an issue about it. If a dealer ever made it a problem I would find another dealer. The tunes are actually better for most all street legal bikes since the manufactures deliver them running lean due to emissions. Lean makes bikes run hot and heat is never a good thing. In California the dealers won't do this type of work for you since it is not legal unless the parts are California Air Resource Board approved, not many are due to the cost to to certify.

I have attached a few articles that you may fine useful regarding the slips on along with dyno results. As for as the link pipe it shouldn't matter if you change the slip on, header or not unless you go to something like the S&S Grand National exhaust which is its own complete system and puts the heat really close to your leg..
 

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