Hello from Australia!
- Thread starter Roddy
- Start date
Tomahawk 333
Member
Nice
Nick W
New member
G'day Roddy
I'm new to forum too, 1 hour N/W of Melbourne and also recently bought a FTR1200 (Carbon).
Highly recommend you do your rear shock a favour and ditch the 2.5 kg hanging off the rear of the swinging arm !
Looks way better with tail tidy but seriously 2.5 kg is a lot of un-sprung weight to be hanging out back.
I also drilled the 8 o'clock holes in the Akroprovic's and took out the baffles to get it sounding like a real m/ bike !
Enjoy.
I'm new to forum too, 1 hour N/W of Melbourne and also recently bought a FTR1200 (Carbon).
Highly recommend you do your rear shock a favour and ditch the 2.5 kg hanging off the rear of the swinging arm !
Looks way better with tail tidy but seriously 2.5 kg is a lot of un-sprung weight to be hanging out back.
I also drilled the 8 o'clock holes in the Akroprovic's and took out the baffles to get it sounding like a real m/ bike !
Enjoy.
Nick W
New member
Great comparison video edgelett with very real life sound (unlike some other videos I've seen and heard).
The great thing about the Akras is that it costs nothing to get the "improved sound" if you own a drill and hex / Allen key. Also you don't need a tune because of removing the baffles... win win !!!
I love the baffle free Akra sound. It's got that deeper presence, now sounds like a motorbike, not overly loud but enough for other road users to be better informed that you are around. If for some ungodly reason you feel the need to refit them, you can just screw them back in.... I won't be doing that!
edgelett
Well-known member
if my 2019 came with Akras I probably would have just debaffled and kept them. but alas the 1st year I needed to get an RR to get Akras and I didn't want the RR colours. plus it was more expensive.
that said I love the look if my Toce and with the db killer it's not too loud. was similar to hubby's Harley before he sold that, maybe a little quieter.
removing the baffles on hubby's FTR took about 10 mins cause we stopped to look and hear it lol.
that said I love the look if my Toce and with the db killer it's not too loud. was similar to hubby's Harley before he sold that, maybe a little quieter.
removing the baffles on hubby's FTR took about 10 mins cause we stopped to look and hear it lol.
edgelett
Well-known member
some people have found them to be spot welded but not everyone.
my husband's came out extremely easily on his 2022 model.
Nick W
New member
Yes and no !
Option 1: If you drill the 8 o'clock holes in the end cap (as I did) you will find that the baffle retaining screw may be quite tight due to it having a small spot weld. If you have a good quality hex/ allen key then giving this a fair amount of force seems to work, as it did for me, and the weld will give way.
I'd also advise going up in drill sizes until you find you have a straight-line access to this screw... I found I had good access with only an 8mm hole on one Can but needed 10mm hole before getting good access & alignment on the other. That way you can decide on what size rubber bung "grommet" to fill the holes and go larger only if desired. Some people have used Akraprovic rubbers same as those at the 6 o'clock position but these need a larger hole, I got away with smaller basic rubber grommets.
Option 2: You drill out the pop rivets in the believe that you will gain access to the baffle retaining screw without the need to drill a hole in the end cap. Wrong, the end cap is spot welded to the inner plate that the baffles are screwed into, so you still can't gain access to the retaining screws without either drilling the 8'oclock hole in the end cap or cutting the spot welds. If you cut the spot welds you will have access but will need to spot weld the end cap back on before re-riveting....Soooo much work !
Tomahawk 333
Member
What size hole is needed for the Akra grommets?
Nick W
New member
Roddy, how are you finding the rear brake pedal position???
I'm asking because your photo shows quite a "dark" area on your rear disc as if the brake pads may be constantly rubbing!
I found mine to be too high causing me to unintentionally apply the rear brake. This was evident when on cruise control as it would cause the cruise to turn off. Its easily adjusted if you feel that it would be better a little lower.
I have been confused about the dark spot since it rolled out of the show room. It's not from me. I had a quick closer look a week ago and I thought if it was the pads the dark region would also be higher up on the disc.
It also crossed my mind that the dealer did a dodgy and sold me a slightly used bike and zerod out the odometer.
Any ideas of how a supposed brand new bike would have the marks would be appreciated.
It also crossed my mind that the dealer did a dodgy and sold me a slightly used bike and zerod out the odometer.
Any ideas of how a supposed brand new bike would have the marks would be appreciated.
Tomahawk 333
Member
Akra grommet size?