OEM turn signals - 12V, xxA? xxW? - required values for aftermarket turn signal resistors

H

Hvnter

New member
Hey everyone,

as i do not really have the possibility to measure the OEM turn signals in order to calculate the required resistors for my 12V/1W LED aftermarket turn signals I just wanted to ask, if any1 of you has already measured the OEMs and maybe got the values for me:)

Thank you very much in advance:)
 
kiwi dave

kiwi dave

Active member
Why don't you ask the aftermarket turn signal manufacturer or supplier what resistor to use? You may find that the answer is none.

There are no resistors shown on the schematic wiring diagram. They are controlled directly by the ECM.

You could always also check the existing stock turn signals in case there is a resistor hidden in the unit. But I doubt it.
 
ferraiolo1

ferraiolo1

2021-2024 IMR Ambassador
Staff member
The ecm is still designed to expect a certain amount of draw on the system, otherwise it wouldn’t know if there is a light out or not. If you unplug one signal. It will hyper flash.

there doesn’t need to be a resistor in the stock signal, because it’s programmed to work
With them. When you install a signal that has less draw on the system. That’s when you need a resistor.
 
kiwi dave

kiwi dave

Active member
I guess you're referring to a bike that originally had flashers with incandescent bulbs. My flashers are stock and are LED. They are extremely unlikely to fail like incandescent bulbs, and I imagine the ECM is programmed to ignore the reduced current that they draw.

What might be interesting is unplug one and see if the action is noticed. I might try that and report back.
 
ferraiolo1

ferraiolo1

2021-2024 IMR Ambassador
Staff member
No im referring to our bikes with oem leds, I just explained what will happen if you unplug it, it will hyper flash.

The ECM is programmed for the exact current the oem LEDs draw, if you install a LED that draws less current than the OEM ones, it will hyper flash.
 
kiwi dave

kiwi dave

Active member
ferraiolo1 said:
The ecm is still designed to expect a certain amount of draw on the system, otherwise it wouldn’t know if there is a light out or not. If you unplug one signal. It will hyper flash.

there doesn’t need to be a resistor in the stock signal, because it’s programmed to work
With them. When you install a signal that has less draw on the system. That’s when you need a resistor.
Click to expand...

I take from this you are referring to a parallel resistor to boost the current drain to be the same as the stock signals or a series resistor otherwise the drain would be much greater than stock?
 
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J

JDP

Active member
I tried some other turn signals (smaller ones ) and when I turned my bike off they lit up and stayed on for about 45 seconds, I wired in an equalizer from Signal Dynamics part number 01008 and everything works fine now but I’m not using these lights anymore because they were just too small
 
L

LaurensR65GS

New member
Do you still have the original indicators? Putting them back on would either solve the issue, or prove Indian wrong. You'd be happy with both.
 
J

JDP

Active member
Yeah I would just put the stock lights back on, I found out a lot about our bikes when I tried to change the lights, apparently we have CAN BUS system and this affects a lot when trying to mess with the electrical system, I spent a couple hundred dollars on different turn signals and found out they just won’t work so I’ll just put them on another bike, kinda sucks
 
K9F

K9F

Well-known member
SPROCK3T MONST3R said:
.........When I ever get my bike back, I am now officially done with Indian! What good is a warranty when neither Indian or the dealer can diagnose a grounded fault code, without starring at my signals for a month! .........
Click to expand...

Why should the Mothership buy OEM signals and fit to prove your point? You effectively kissed any electrical warranty goodbye when you messed with it. Five tunes from FuelMoto and still running like a bag of spanners, awaiting a tune from Ryan to get the Toce, eagerly awaiting cams all within a few months. Your ride certainly has had it's peaks and troughs along with your aspirations. I don't personally blame you for moving on, nevertheless the squirming you are experiencing with your warranty is hardly surprising as the slightest excuse and many will try to wriggle off the hook. Despite being an electrical engineer acquainted with the intricacies of CanBus that is one of the reasons I let the dealership fit mine, any hassle and it's on them not me! Next bike don't mess with it until you are 100% happy with the way it runs and have proven it's fit for your purpose.

Oh by the way, a multimeter is not much good at diagnosing CanBus issues. You need a CanBus tester that measures signal to noise ratios on the bus (CanBus is a two way street that multiple systems can use the same bus reducing cable requirements) and often they come with a signal transceiver that sends a signal down the line and measures the return and received signals, usually frequency based.

Late Edit. At least the door was shut quietly on exiting.

Queen - Another One Bites the Dust (Official Video) - YouTube
 
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Massimo

Massimo

Active member
K9F said:
Why should the Mothership buy OEM signals and fit to prove your point? You effectively kissed any electrical warranty goodbye when you messed with it. Five tunes from FuelMoto and still running like a bag of spanners, awaiting a tune from Ryan to get the Toce, eagerly awaiting cams all within a few months. Your ride certainly has had it's peaks and troughs along with your aspirations. I don't personally blame you for moving on, nevertheless the squirming you are experiencing with your warranty is hardly surprising as the slightest excuse and many will try to wriggle off the hook. Despite being an electrical engineer acquainted with the intricacies of CanBus that is one of the reasons I let the dealership fit mine, any hassle and it's on them not me! Next bike don't mess with it until you are 100% happy with the way it runs and have proven it's fit for your purpose.

Oh by the way, a multimeter is not much good at diagnosing CanBus issues. You need a CanBus tester that measures signal to noise ratios on the bus (CanBus is a two way street that multiple systems can use the same bus reducing cable requirements) and often they come with a signal transceiver that sends a signal down the line and measures the return and received signals, usually frequency based.

Late Edit. At least the door was shut quietly on exiting.

Queen - Another One Bites the Dust (Official Video) - YouTube
Click to expand...
Do you mean this ?IMG_20201126_170651587.jpg
 
K9F

K9F

Well-known member
Hi Massimo,

Unfortunately that is not a specific CanBus tester but can be used to pinpoint faults in a cable. Those testers above are very good. They will tell you by means of a generated tone exactly where your break or short circuit is in a circuit. The downside is to do this you need access to the whole cable loom to run the sensor along it.

In Layman's terms....A CanBus tester will send a signal down a cable and measure any expected signal loss at the other end or return expected from the equipment once the signal has been processed. A CanBus is a two way street with signals being sent and returning down the same cable line.
 
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J

JDP

Active member
I’m leaving all electric lights stock, I don’t want any trouble with the computer or warranty issues
 
K9F

K9F

Well-known member
If you know what you're doing and use the correct load equalizers you're fine, nevertheless dependent on your relationship with your dealer you could still find your warranty compromised or them playing hardball if issues ensue, as someone was already experiencing?
 
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