RR, S, and non S baffle removal videos

[ferraiolo1]

This is how to remove baffles from S and non S oem pipes, video by member @[U]Unruly Rider[/U]

This is for the RR models

 

[Max Kool]

Especially the Akra is super easy (and reversible), and was exactly the same on my Hooskie.

 

[Unruly Rider]

Especially the Akra is super easy (and reversible), and was exactly the same on my Hooskie.

Yeah, that was the only downside (non-reversible) of pulling the baffles from the standard S and base models. I should have mentioned in my video to use plenty of cutting lube/fluid on the hole-saw and go slowly but steady or you will rip up and gnarl the teeth prematurely.

 

[Max Kool]

Hole saws in a hand held drill are evil anyway, especially in wood. If the teeth bite, the drill can rip your hand off. 😬

 

[Unruly Rider]

Hole saws in a hand held drill are evil anyway, especially in wood. If the teeth bite, the drill can rip your hand off. 😬

No doubt about that, I've beat up a few knuckles and fingers that way in the past. 🤕

 

[NZ FTR]

Thanks to the guy in second vid and also people that posted in the other thread about this. Did mine other day with no drama. Bike sounds good and it didn’t cold start stall, remains to see if that was just a fluke...

 

[mark.lb]

Thunderstorm passed through and interrupted my afternoon ride so I decided to get the drill bits and tools out. It took me a little longer (1 hour) than 18 minutes (like in the video) but the Db killers are now gone! I was looking for rubber grommets to fill the holes. I realized I had 3 - 25cc medical syringes hanging around. The rubber plunger is a “perfect fit“ for the hole! I had 1 black and 2 grey so for now the second hole plugs are grey.
I like the new sound. A lot throatier at idle, good sound when under acceleration and a nice bark on downshifts. Not too loud to be obnoxious. (Although some people love loud pipes.)

 

[DeplorableOne]

I wish the jackwad who drilled out mine would of checked this thread first, looks like he slipped on the first one and drilled out the internal hex head. So one can is a little chewed up.

 

[Max Kool]

Pics?

 

[DeplorableOne]

Pics?

 

[DeplorableOne]

I was actually trying to search for replacement end caps so I could repair them both

 

[S2Davies]

View attachment 2868

There's a warning to everyone! Slow and steady with the correct tooling and masking tape can easily produce a neat job. My word that is a shame!

 

[Max Kool]

Is the hole too big for the rubber cap now, or does it still fit?

 

[K9F]

Wonder if they bothered to run a pilot drill first? Drill bit probably 'snatched' at some point? If the cap bung covers it, fit and forget or get a bigger capped bung.

 

[DeplorableOne]

It barely doesn't cover it and the rubber fits

 

[DeplorableOne]

If it was up to me I would of drilled out the rivets and redone them. Now I'm stuck trying to hunt down replacement end caps

 

[mark.lb]

When I did mine I used a punch and progressively larger drill bits so the bit would not bite and tear. (I think these cans are titanium-I could be wrong.) Use bits made for metal not wood. Go Slow! You only get one chance to get it right.

 

[K9F]

.......Now I'm stuck trying to hunt down replacement end caps

Did have a look about. The only spares advertised on the Akrapovik site are the springs. You could consider sourcing some 12mm grommets with a larger cap perhaps, then swapping out all four to keep uniformity?

25 x 12mm Hole Blanking Grommets Body Plugs Masking New good quality | eBay

 

[Omohundro]

I have a question about removing the baffles. I do not want to drill the second hole to access the 4mm bolt. Can I remove the rivets around the edge and slip off the end cap to access the bolt? I know this way is more work....

 

[DeplorableOne]

Yes it's by far the better way to do it, and they even sell the exact replacement rivets